On June 19, 2019, a new Olympus dual-speed teleconverter – TC 2x, was launched. At first glance, most people would consider this as a rather unimportant event. But from a nature photographer’s point of view, it was indeed the launch of a rather interesting accessory. Just like its predecessor 1.4x converter, it works with both 40-150mm/2.8 and 300mm/4 IS lenses. Equally, it will work with the upcoming 150-400mm/4.5 IS (but we have to wait for about a year for that one). So, what makes this converter so crucial? Well, simply put it is its achievable focal length, which, in combination with a 300mm lens, is a respectable 1200mm after full frame conversion.
How is it with the focal point recalculation?
Increasingly, countless number of passionate discussions about the “real” focal length of lenses on the M43 system are often seen on the Internet. Is it necessary to calculate a focus of a 300 as a 300 or as a 600? (because the system uses a smaller chip with a crop factor of 2x). If we took into account only the counting, didn’t leave the house and talked purely hypothetically, then the 300mm lens truly is just another 300mm lens. However, these numbers are useless when you hold the “three-hundred” on the camera and the angle of view you are trying to find bird in the viewfinder is exactly the same as a 600mm. Furthermore, how useful is the fact that you can cut out the same image (as from this small chip) from a 20MP full frame, but leaving only 5MP for editing and printing? Is there a difference between a 5MP image from a full frame and a 20MP image from M43 when their cutout is the same image? Well, you bet it does. So, this is just to clarify for future, when you’ll read some of my articles talking about the joys and sorrows of photography, I’ll write/ say that the photo was taken with a 300mm lens, but I will use the focal length as 600mm after recalculation or 600mm (equiv).
Common Oystercatcher, Shetland Islands, Olympus E-M1X + M.Zuiko 300mm/4 IS + TC 2x
How is it with the aperture conversion?
The second parameter that comes in addition to the focal length is the lens speed. That complicates things a bit. For example, in the aforementioned lens M.ZUIKO 300 mm/4 IS, the exposure time will be automatically set the same as in aperture 4, but the depth of field will be equal to its double i.e. aperture 8. As a result, you will end up with a relatively reasonable exposure at a relatively reasonable time, but bigger depth of field needs some TLC. If, for example, your main feature is ultra-fine background, then you will need to fiddle with it more than with a full frame. If however, the subtle background is just one of the many techniques that you use to create your photos, you’ll find that there are times when the greater depth of field is actually quite welcome. Such as taking macros, landscapes or wide shots of animals with their natural surroundings. Now, back to the new converter.
Common Magpie, Czech Republic, Olympus E-M1X + M.Zuiko 300mm/4 IS + TC 2x
TC 2x and resulting focal points
Since I already explained how it is with focal length and aperture, I can now follow up with the newest arrival from Olympus. Currently, the converter offers two options. With 40-150mm/2.8 lens becomes 160 – 600mm (equiv) with a 5.6 aperture. And, if you put the teleconverter on a prime 300mm/4 IS lens, it creates a double focal length of 1200mm (equiv) with aperture 8. This is really exciting, as once the 150 – 400 lens with a built-in 1.25 converter comes to life, this teleconverter will double that to an impressive 2000mm focal point! Sadly, we will have to wait for that a bit. So, how does it work in real life?
Blue Emperor, Czech Republic, Olympus E-M1X + M.Zuiko 300mm/4 IS + TC 2x
M.Zuiko 40 – 150mm/2.8 + TC 2x
Perhaps, the use of a 2x converter to a M.Zuiko 40-150mm /2.8 lens is the most anticipated combination. Many people hope to ‘not to have’ buy a much more expensive ‘three hundred’. Honestly, if you feel that you’ll achieve practically the same results then I got news for you – no, you won’t. You will understand this especially when you compare the outputs from a prime 300 lens. And not only that, the behaviour of both lenses is different. A prime 300 without a converter will focus faster, especially in low light conditions, it will have a nicer bokeh, and a much more reliable autofocus. On the other hand, if you do not have a comparison and you don’t have this lens in your inventory, then you will probably be very pleasantly surprised how great the TC 2x works. In my experience, it belongs to the absolute top in this category of converters. I personally think this combination will come in handy for example in the mountains or when traveling light only with the wide range lenses such as M.Zuiko 12-100mm/ 4 IS, which combination is covering anything from 24 to 600mm (equiv). So, you will then be able to take pictures of landscapes from your hand and for a very long time (12mm can be kept with a little erudition even over 5s exposure), plants, insects from the size of a small butterfly to dragonflies, lizards, frogs and larger or tame species of birds and mammals. In my opinion, it’s a really great combination that doesn’t take up too much space. If, however, you want to focus mainly on animals, then I would highly recommend a combination of M.Zuiko 300mm/4 IS, which in conjunction with this teleconverter TC 2x can do wonders.
Ground Squirrel, Czech Republic, Olympus E-M1X + M.Zuiko 40-150mm/2.8 + TC 2x
M.Zuiko 300mm/4 IS + TC 2x
If you own your own ‘my precious’ M.Zuiko 300mm/4 IS and take pictures of animals, then you will probably agree with me that it is quite an addictive lens. It’s extremely versatile and can be used for photographing both animals as well as dragonfly or butterfly-sized insects. The TC 2x converter turns it into a ‘small beast’ or ‘painless’ or ‘I’ll-leave-it-to-you’. In fact, several properties are joined together here, producing – focal length of 1200mm (equiv.) + minimum focal distance of 1.4m + very strong stabilisation. This comes in handy, when you look at even relatively small insects through your viewfinder and reach the minimum focus distance, you are still able to take pictures of surprising details from your hand. For example, you look at a small wren in a nearby bush and it almost won’t fit in your view. It really is a whole new look to takes some time of getting used to. I feel, however, that you will find its use less frequently than TC 1.4x, which is after all not such an optical jump. TC 2x will be especially useful when you primarily want to take atlas-style pictures of shy birds or insects. But from my experience, there are also some limitations that this combination brings. For example, if you’re accustomed to looking for animals through your viewfinder, you might be surprised that finding their exact location is much more difficult, especially when the animal starts to move. The slightest movement of the lens will cause it to disappear from the viewfinder. However, you will be glad to learn that it takes a knack and after a few hours of practice it is quite easy. Higher level of difficulty starts when you try to do the same through the back display (ideally flipped out with the camera on the ground). I admit that when I was recently on Shetland, I missed a photo of a Wheateater several times just because I wasn’t able to find him. Luckily, thanks to my patience, I managed to take a lot of photos where the bird is nice and in focus. Also, keep in mind that aperture 8 will push you to increase the ISO to keep your photos sharp. The third thing to consider is the amount of brilliantly sharp photos. My experience suggests that there may be a higher proportion of unfocused photos taken purely from your hand in comparison with the prime 300 lens. Therefore, I always like to check the focus by enlarging the focus area at least 7 times and in the event of an error, simply refocus again. When everything falls in the right place, the photos are super sharp. In fact, they are unexpectedly sharp, considering such an extreme combination. This opens up a whole new world of detail that was previously solved more often by trimming. Surprisingly, the depth of field, which corresponds to about f/16, is actually quite relaxed and it is possible to work with a nice background similar to a 300 lens.
Atlantic Puffin, Shetland Islands, Olympus E-M1X + M.Zuiko 300mm/4 IS + TC 2x
Northern Wheatear, Shetland Islands, Olympus E-M1X + M.Zuiko 300mm/4 IS + TC 2x
Fine detail sample
(I recommend to open in a new window and enlarge 1:1)
My rating
My impressions of the new converter are generally positive. It is also due to the fact that I do not treat it as something that will save me money for buying a higher-grade lens (it is definitely not such to date). For me this converter is an interesting tool that can be used here and there to create an interesting detail, which I would not have previously achieve or would have to scrape my teeth as I do not like to cut the photos.
What I like on the TC2x?
+ it turns a simple 40-150mm/ 2.8 lens into a very versatile range of 160-600mm (equiv)
+ from a prime 300lens you get a focal point of 1200mm (equiv)
+ its construction meets all PRO series features – high optical quality; as well as dust, water and frost resistance
+ despite it being a double converter, it is still very unobtrusive and you do not have to create a new place in the backpack for it (I have it on the 30mm/ 3.5 lens)
+ from the fine details perspective, it is truly a superlative converter 2x of the utmost quality
+ the closer you are to your main subject you photograph, the better the fine detail
+ fine detail on open aperture is excellent
+ inclination to the next aperture is superb (I personally did this only exceptionally because I was working with depth of field)
+ focusing is great under both good as well as average light
Common Kestrel, Czech Republic, Olympus E-M1X + M.Zuiko 300mm/4 IS + TC 2x
Atlantic Puffin, Shetland Islands, Olympus E-M1X + M.Zuiko 300mm/4 IS + TC 2x
What I don’t like so much?
– AF accuracy is not always as reliable as with deploying a prime lense or with the TC 1.4 (if at all possible, I recommend to always check via magnified view of AF field)
– it is difficult to use in low light conditions – the AF speed slows down; long focus and higher aperture require quite high ISO values and long times want more practice or a tripod
– especially in combination with 300mm/ 4 IS, it is much more difficult to find an object through the tilted display with the camera on the ground.
Northern Wheatear, Shetland Islands, Olympus E-M1X + M.Zuiko 300mm/4 IS + TC 2x
In conclusion
I can recommend the converter with a calm heart, considering you are aware of its strengths as well as all its weaknesses. It can be a very handy little helper. If you plan to keep it on all the time and only occasionally take it off, you may not be as enthusiastic as when you use separate lenses and put it on only for special occasions. For me personally, huge BRAVO! It will help you to reach for photos that you might not have attempted before. Huge thanks go to the Czech representation of Olympus for lending me the converter for practical testing! Thank you.
17 Comments
Some amazing shots which show the capabilities of the excellent Olympus glass.keep up the great work and vision!
Tomorrow i will pick up a MC 20 to go along with my MC14 to add to my 40-150 2.8 ,300 f4 and maybe try on my 100-400 F5-6.3 although
i think that would require extremely bright conditions on a solid tripod..could be interesting….thanks for
sharing you knowledge ,.
Cheers
Colin
Hi, read your article with great interest. Just purchased a MC-20 to attach to my. 300mm f4 lens.
When taking birds at considerable distance, I can’t get them in focus. I talking 300 metres. Closer stuff is in focus, your thought would be much appreciated.
Hugh Barton
do I understand correctly you use the MC-20 on the M.Zuiko 12-100mm/ 4 IS as well and claim to be
covering anything from 24 to 600mm (equiv)?
From my calculations that would (‘only’) be 24 to 400 mm, right?
Hi Petr
Thanks for the review. It’s been 2 years since you wrote the article and I wonder if you ever bought your own copy of the MC-20?
I am not crazy about teleconverters but nor do I have 2 grand for a lens so I can see substantial benefits in regard to close up and macro work while acknowledging the limitations of the 40150 with an MC-20 in telephoto photography.
Hi Petr – I want to say your work is fantastic! Those so pleasing colors in the OOF areas, along with the subject itself is music to my eyes. I cannot express in words how much I enjoy your images.
I have taken the plunge into the m43 world and tomorrow arrive my pair of older but mint M1’s and a couple of lenses. Your work is among some of the reasons I feel confident in making this move. You’ll see by my website that my interests are similar to yours – just without the amazing world travel – LOL. I do what I can when I have a chance.
Next week will arrive the small and mighty 40-150mm f2.8 and without a doubt I will be acquiring the 2x TC to go along with it. Your work with the 300mm…..wow! I am thinking I will have to start saving and maybe in a year I can get one of those, but for now that range will have to wait.
Thank you for posting and informing us out here what is possible with this fine Olympus gear. I am very excited to begin my Oly adventure.
Keep shooting and keep those wonderful images flowing – the world has much beauty to offer and thanks to photography we get to see it a bit differently than most.
– Larry
Amazing shots here, impressive performance from the TC but it is way too expensive. I have seen it as high as $495 and the cheapest I have seen is $340 used. I cant figure out why it is so expensive, beyond my ability to justify. I should have bought the 100-400 lens.
The fact that these pictures are mostly straight out of camera indicates just how talented Petr is. His galleries blow me away!
Hi Petr, I know it may not be a direct comparison, but how does the 40-150mm f2.8 + TC 2x compare to the 75-300mm f4.8-6.7 at 300mm? Which would be sharper?
As you have mentioned, I try to not look at 300mm prime as that is a very specialised lens.
@Philip – was thinking the same thing… of course, these are selected from probably THOUSANDS of “not so great” shots that most of take. Now, spend another 30 hours in your favorite RAW editor Plus Photoshop – and you too can get these shots. Heck, he might have even COMBINED shots… pulling out the subject and placing it on an isolated bkg image…. or just blurred the background on a new layer.
Show the original images and then we can understand for sure what the TC can and cannot do….
To be honest, I am happy you think these pictures were selected among thousands and deeply manipulated 🙂 Check my article (in Czech) with nany examples of my before/after images. 95% pictures are almost ready from my camera. If I edit anything more than that, it was about 10 pictures at all. But not in case of TC 2x pictures 🙂 http://www.sulasula.com/cs/olympus-pred-a-po/
Fascinating how much is still possible with this masterpiece of Olympus again, although you wisely recommend to keep expectations within realistic frames as when the light dims it’ll become a challenge to get a brilliant results of moving animals… – appreciate a lot your way of reviewing.
I’ll remain one of your followers and learn continously while using my M1X / M1Mkii gear in few time I have at my disposal (yet)… 😉
Great work, Petr !
Very convincing images.
Thanks, Toni 🙂
Excellent real world review and superb fotos.
Thank you, Harry 🙂
Liked reading your account of this converter very much. I particularly like the images where a lot of plain background is showing.
I wondered what processing you did on these images as they look far more like the images from a bigger sensor than m/3.
Hi Philip, no special postprocess applied. I try to get the most in the field. You can check my article (in czech) where I show many examples of my before/after images. 95% of my pictures are almost ready rught from camera. Just very few (maybe 10 at all) pictures edited more. http://www.sulasula.com/cs/olympus-pred-a-po/